professional model Roshni Sharma’s viral Instagram post ignited a firestorm within India’s fashion industry, exposing systemic underpayment and exploitation faced by models. Her revelation, echoed by peers like Teajay Gil and veteran beauty expert Elton Fernandez, highlighted dismal pay—such as ₹6,000 for 12-hour shifts—alongside unpaid fittings, unreimbursed travel, and a culture of fear that silences dissent. Sharma’s call for minimum rates of ₹40,000 per day for fashion week models triggered widespread debate, resonating with netizens and industry insiders alike. As of August 8, 2025, this movement challenges the glamorous facade of India’s fashion runways, demanding transparency, fair contracts, and respect. This article delves into the issues, key voices, industry dynamics, and potential reforms, situating the controversy within India’s broader economic and governance context.
The Spark: Roshni Sharma’s Viral Post
Roshni Sharma, a seasoned model, used Instagram to pull back the curtain on India’s fashion industry, describing it as rife with underpayment, overwork, and disrespect. In a video shared on August 5, 2025, she detailed the economic hardships models face, noting that rates have plummeted due to oversupply and desperation among aspiring models. “Fashion week rates for pool models should start at ₹40,000 a day, with travel and stay included,” she urged, adding, “If you’ve walked before, don’t let anyone make you feel insecure. Ask for what you deserve.”
Her post resonated deeply, amassing thousands of views and comments, as reported by Moneycontrol and NDTV. It spurred a wave of responses from models, makeup artists, and netizens, exposing long-standing grievances. Sharma highlighted how brands exploit the influx of new models, who accept low rates to break into the industry, driving down pay for all. She also criticized agencies for failing to negotiate higher rates, leaving models stuck with stagnant or declining earnings.
Voices of Dissent: Models and Industry Insiders
Sharma’s post opened the floodgates, with others sharing their experiences:
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Teajay Gil: A 27-year-old model with nine years’ experience, Gil told NDTV about grueling schedules, such as being called at 9 AM for a 9:30 PM show, earning just ₹6,000—or sometimes nothing. He noted unpaid fittings, no travel reimbursement, and substandard catering, forcing models to buy their own food. Gil suggested fair rates: ₹15,000–₹35,000 for male models and ₹20,000–₹50,000 for female models per show. He also recounted a brand shoot where his ₹35,000 offer was raised to ₹80,000 after he publicized it, yet it remained below the brand’s budget.
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Elton Fernandez: A veteran beauty expert with over 20 years in the industry, Fernandez called out the “dignity disparity” backstage. He noted that while influencers earn lakhs for a single Instagram reel, models receive ₹10,000 per show, and makeup artists get ₹4,000 per model (less for male models). “One quality mascara costs ₹1,500, so how are we expected to maintain quality with such meager pay?” he asked. Fernandez emphasized the fear of blacklisting, recalling being sidelined for defending a mistreated model. “Exploitation doesn’t have to be sexual to be valid,” he said, describing it as “invisible, strategic, and damaging.”
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Other Models: Anonymous models shared stories of working 15-hour days in heavy outfits for minimal pay, with brands ignoring COVID-19 safety protocols during past shoots, as reported by Livemint in 2021. Female models, while earning more than males (up to ₹50,000 vs. ₹30,000–₹35,000 per show), still face exploitation, with agencies taking 30–40% commissions.
These accounts, amplified by The Indian Express and Times Now, reveal a pattern of low wages, long hours, and systemic devaluation, undermining the industry’s glamorous image.
Industry Dynamics: A Culture of Exploitation
India’s fashion industry, while celebrated for its creativity and growth, operates on structural inequities:
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Low Pay and Oversupply: The influx of aspiring models, fueled by grooming schools and social media, has created a surplus, enabling brands to offer rates as low as ₹6,000–₹10,000 per show. The Indian Express reported in 2013 that top models earned ₹7–40 lakh annually, but most struggle at the lower end. By 2025, earnings have plummeted 70–80% for many, per Livemint.
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Gender Disparity: Male models earn less due to fewer shows, with rates capped at ₹30,000–₹35,000, compared to ₹50,000+ for females, as noted by model Amit Khanna in 2013. This gap persists, with Teajay Gil highlighting male models’ ₹6,000–₹7,000 rates in 2025.
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Agency Exploitation: Agencies charge 30–40% commissions, leaving models with minimal take-home pay. Varshita Thatavarthi, a plus-size model, told Livemint that after agency cuts, a ₹25,000 shoot yields little. Agencies also pressure models to boost social media presence, yet brands rarely compensate for this.
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Dignity Disparity: Fernandez’s term captures the preferential treatment of Bollywood celebrities and influencers, who are “pampered, prioritized, and promoted,” while models are treated as “hangers.” This hierarchy devalues models’ labor, as actors and influencers command higher fees for less work.
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Fear of Blacklisting: Speaking out risks being labeled “difficult,” leading to blacklisting, as Fernandez experienced. This culture of silence perpetuates exploitation, with models fearing career loss for demanding fair pay or conditions.
The industry’s reliance on informal contracts and lack of unionization exacerbates these issues. Past attempts to form model unions in the 1990s and 2000s failed due to competition and backbiting, as noted by model Chatterjee in Livemint.
Broader Context: Exploitation in India’s Fashion Ecosystem
The exploitation extends beyond models to other workers:
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Garment Workers: A 2019 Reuters report highlighted “invisible” home-based garment workers, mostly women and girls, earning ₹8,000–₹12,000 monthly for 9–16-hour days. These workers face no contracts, no inspections, and exploitative conditions, with brands like Ralph Lauren implicated.
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Factory Conditions: A 2020 BBC investigation revealed factory workers supplying Tesco and Marks & Spencer earned ₹2,000–₹5,000 monthly, with some forced to sleep on factory floors. The 2013 Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh, killing over 1,000 workers, exposed similar risks in India’s supply chains.
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Craftspersons: X posts, like @iRadhikaGupta’s on July 27, 2025, criticized Dior for selling a ₹200K coat with Lucknowi mukaish embroidery without crediting Indian artisans, highlighting the industry’s failure to value labor.
These parallels underscore a systemic issue: the fashion industry prioritizes profits over fair compensation, exploiting models, workers, and artisans alike.
Economic and Governance Context
The controversy unfolds amid India’s broader economic and administrative challenges:
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U.S. Tariffs: The U.S.’s 50% tariff on Indian exports, effective August 28, 2025, threatens India’s textile and fashion sectors, which employ millions. Models’ low wages reflect the industry’s cost-cutting to remain competitive, as noted in Fashion Revolution.
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Administrative Reforms: Odisha’s crackdown on inefficient government staff, as ordered by Chief Secretary Manoj Ahuja, and the potential appointment of K. Moses Chalai as Finance Secretary signal a push for efficiency and accountability. These reforms could inspire private-sector labor reforms, including in fashion.
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Atmanirbharta: India’s self-reliance initiative emphasizes domestic industries, including textiles. Fair wages for models and workers could strengthen the sector’s global reputation, aligning with Atmanirbhar Bharat.
Challenges to Reform
Addressing the industry’s issues faces hurdles:
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Lack of Regulation: India lacks specific labor laws for models, unlike garment workers covered by minimum wage laws (though poorly enforced). The gig economy nature of modeling complicates oversight.
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Union Resistance: Past unionization failures, due to competition and agency dominance, hinder collective bargaining. Models like Varshita Thatavarthi advocate for unions to secure fair pay and support.
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Brand Resistance: Brands prioritize profits, exploiting oversupply to keep rates low. Fernandez noted that designers and corporates profit while models and artists struggle.
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Consumer Awareness: While netizens support the models’ cause, consumer demand for cheap fashion perpetuates exploitation, as highlighted by X user @dieworkwear on July 29, 2025.
Opportunities for Change
The controversy presents reform opportunities:
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Transparency and Contracts: Models like Sharma and Gil advocate for transparent contracts, paid fittings, and social media compensation, as reported by NDTV. Standardized rates could stabilize earnings.
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Unionization: A renewed push for a models’ union, supported by public sentiment, could negotiate better wages and conditions, as suggested by Thatavarthi.
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Consumer Advocacy: Growing awareness, amplified by social media, could pressure brands to adopt ethical practices, similar to global movements post-Rana Plaza.
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Government Intervention: Aligning with Atmanirbhar Bharat, the government could introduce guidelines for fair pay in creative industries, drawing from Odisha’s administrative reforms.
Public and Industry Response
The public has rallied behind the models:
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Social Media: X posts, like @ndtvLifestyle’s on August 6, 2025, amplified the issue, with netizens praising Sharma’s courage. Comments on Instagram urged models to “stand united” and demand respect.
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Industry Voices: While some designers remain silent, others, per Times Now, have privately acknowledged the need for change, fearing backlash if they speak publicly.
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Global Resonance: The issue echoes global concerns, such as Milan’s 2024 probes into LVMH subsidiaries for worker exploitation, suggesting India’s fashion industry faces international scrutiny.
The outcry led by Roshni Sharma on August 5, 2025, has exposed the dark underbelly of India’s fashion industry, where models earn as little as ₹6,000 for 12-hour shifts, face unpaid fittings, and risk blacklisting for speaking out. Voices like Teajay Gil and Elton Fernandez highlight systemic underpayment, dignity disparities, and a culture of fear, resonating with broader exploitation in garment work and craftsmanship. As India grapples with U.S. tariffs and pushes for Atmanirbhar Bharat, the fashion industry stands at a crossroads. Transparency, unionization, and government intervention offer paths to reform, but entrenched brand practices and consumer demand for cheap fashion pose challenges. Sharma’s viral call for ₹40,000 daily rates has ignited a movement, demanding not just fair pay but respect for the talent that brings India’s runways to life.
